If you take some time to review our online article on CARPENTER BEE CONTROL, you’ll learn that each spring the developing young will start emerging from nests which were active the preceding year. If the nest entrance/exit holes were plugged up somehow or now are blocked and no longer usable, the emerging bees will find alternative pathways to get out and go about their business as they do each spring. I suspect this could be happening in your sunroom based on the limited information you’ve provided.

Unfortunately, stopping the bees will be difficult without knowing their pathways. I have seen two common scenarios that seem to happen a lot with such problems: 1) The old holes were plugged during a paint job/construction project and the exiting bees are drilling new pathways out of their old nests or 2) the bees are able to exit their old nests but cannot get to “free air pathways” as they are now trapped in some wall or ceiling void. After following what they either sense or see as a way “out”, they’re actually entering your home and not the outside air space.

The scenarios listed above are quite common. I’ve dealt with hundreds of such problems and really there is no easy fix. Leaving the windows open generally isn’t practical but if you’re able to contain them in the sunroom during the day and then let them out all at once when you know there are 1 or more active in the room, this could be a temporary solution. But as far as treating is concerned; just what is it you feel you can treat? Without knowing the hole location they’re using you would effectively be aiming blindly with any application and this is not a “smart” way to do any kind of pest control.

In summary I would say to wait it out. Most carpenter bee nests will only consist of 3-9 bees. With any luck, they’ll all emerge in the next 1-3 weeks as spring develops and it warms up. The real key will be to prevent future nesting. This can be done using the CYPERMETHRIN we have listed in the article. And if you discover some live active holes that are either old or new, treat them with the DRIONE and then plug them up. This will shut them down for sure and prevent any such pattern next spring.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

http://www.carpenterbees.com/carpenter-bee-control

http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page259.html

http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page256.html

jonathan

www.bugspray.com

Currently the best “additive” is the NBS INSECT REPELLENT we have listed in our CARPENTER BEE CONTROL ARTICLE. It can be mixed with paint or stain and will provide 1-2 years of prolonged insect repellency action. It can also be mixed with water and sprayed on homes and plants as an insect repellent but not a pesticide; it won’t kill anything as it’s only for repelling pests. It’s proven effective for carpenter bees along with some other invasive insects so you should definitely include this for your upcoming paint job. However, I wouldn’t wait till that’s done as a lot of damage could happen between now and then!

Based on the time of year we’re at, I’d do a good dusting now to get rid of the ones that are active before you paint. Treat any nests with the  DRIONE DUST and it will shut them right down. Applying it every spring around the perimeter of my home does a great job of keeping them away the whole year. It seems as though wasps and bees like nesting where roof and gutters meet by soffits and eaves. These locations notoriously have gaps, a lot of moisture and a protected area (under the eave) which is an instinctive location most bees and wasps try to find when seeking nest sites. Using a DUSTICK, I’ve learned applying Drione to these areas does a great job of stopping most every insect that might try to invade. And getting it applied in the spring, before pests like carpenter bees establish themselves, seems to be important. As our video’s show, the Drione will permeate up into the shingles and gaps and essentially take away these locations as nest sites. And since these are protected from direct weathering, the dust can last several months making it real long term protection.

I also know some people prefer to spray because it’s easier to do compared to dusting. That’s when we tested and learned the CYPERMETHRIN does a good job when sprayed to these surface areas of repelling these bees. So if you aren’t willing to dust with the Drione, spraying the Cypermethrin once a month will do the job. But really the best way to handle this problem will be to dust now with the Drione and then use the Insect Repellent mixed with paint. Overall this combination will provide good results and require minimal applications.

Here are direct links to the information and products mentioned above:

http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/repellents/nbs-repellent-insect-spray

http://www.carpenterbees.com/carpenter-bee-control

http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page256.html

http://www.gotosprayer.com/dusters/long-reaching-dusters/dustick

http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page259.html

jonathan

www.bugspray.com

My carpenter bee problem exists below my untreated wood deck. The homes they’ve created are not the floor boards, but rather the joists underneath the floor.

Although the deck is 16′ x 20′, I feel they are ” only ” inhabiting 10% of the total area. To access their nests they are squeezing thru the 1/4″ to 3/8″ gap between boards. As the crawlspace under the deck is minimal, I’ve only been on the attack from the top of the deck floor using a white, foam spray that does an exceptional job as they try to squeeze back into their homes.

My problem is I  really have no way to get to their 1/2″ bored holes w/o ripping out 6 or 7 floor boards. I am concerned as in 4-days of the ongoing battle I’ve killed 45 to 50 of the varmints, and there still is activity.

If I use the CYPERMETHERIN, I’ll only get it between the floorboard cracks and maybe a small portion on the face of the floor joists. Will this minimum contact with the CYPERMETHRIN low down their activity, or possibly even be fatal?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

Getting the dust into their holes is usually important for long term control as explained in our CARPENTER BEE CONTROL ARTICLE. That being said, it’s not going to be a practical option in your situation. But there are two things you can try.

First, if the space between the deck planks are fairly tight, the bees are likely to touch them as they crawl in and out from underneath. A good dusting with DRIONE will get dust up under the deck planks. It’s a light dust and will fly around coating the exposed wood surfaces quite well even without a direct treatment. Just trace amounts landing on the wood underside can have a profound impact since it takes little Drione to impact the bees. In fact, if you blow enough down into the space, some will travel up into their nests as well. That means as the bees fly down and crawl into their hidden nests, they’ll pick up small amounts of dust and die.  I suggest treating once a week till you don’t see any activity. This has proven to be quite effective in all the cases I’ve tried it given the way Drione floats around and adheres to surfaces. I also suspect because it’s so active on bees there is a good chance you can get them even when you only get them with a small amount of product.

Additionally, liquid spraying with CYPERMETHRIN every month there after will also help prevent future infestations. The scent of treatments done throughout the summer months will deter any bee or wasp from wanting to make a nest and will effectively keep them away for long term control. I suggest you broadcast it over the areas where you see them coming and going. Do this first, before the dusting with Drione, and then let the spray dry. Afterwards you can dust so effectively you’ll have Cypermethrin on the top side and Drione on the bottom side.

Direct links to these products and information can be seen here:

Carpenter Bee Control:  http://www.carpenterbees.com/carpenter-bee-control

Drione Dust:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/drione-dust

Cypermethrin:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/viper-cypermethrin

jonathan

www.bugspray.com

What you’re seeing is a carpenter bee. They are very active in the spring as this is the time when females drill holes to start nests. We have an in depth article about CARPENTER BEE CONTROL which  highlights all you’ll need to know about this pest and how to treat. First, read the article. Then get some Drione and Cypermethrin to stop the damage from getting any worse.

It’s carpenter bees. Some people keep it all one large word: carpenterbees. And these are the ones which drill into wood to create nests in which they lay eggs. A lot more information can be found in our CARPENTER BEE ARTICLE.

You’ve got a carpenter bee or two which become very active in the spring. These bees are quite large and resemble a bumble bee. The males commonly do what you’re describing and though they’ll fly at you when you move close, they can’t sting since they don’t have a stinger! Females do have stingers so stay away from any that are in the flowers or in a nest. Carpenter bee nests will be found in wood, usually on the bottom side (the side facing the ground) and their holes will bore for several feet into wood if left untreated. Since they can cause a lot of damage, it’s best to kill off nesting ones now using the DRIONE and spray with some CYPERMETHRIN to stop new ones from creating a nest. More information about this process can be found on line in our carpenter bee control article.