If you read our CARPENTER BEE CONTROL ARTICLE, you'll learn they don't typically attack. In fact, only the female can sting and it would be quite unusual for you to encounter more than one at a time. I'm actually thinking you might have BUMBLE BEES, which closely resemble Carpenter Bees, and are more likely to sting in numbers. The good news is regardless of which species you actually have, both can be treated by dusting the column with the DRIONE DUST and a HAND DUSTER we have featured in our carpenter bee article.

At this point I suggest you observe the column from afar to see where the bees are entering their nest. If it's carpenter bees, there will be holes drilled which are most likely being used for nests. This would explain the sawdust you found. But I have seen Bumble Bees use such columns for nesting and I've even seen bumble bees use carpenter bee holes as a way to enter the void so again, it could be either. Many times the wood used to make these columns isn't that thick and when carpenter bees drill, they will inadvertently drill all the way through a piece and end up abandoning the hole altogether. Carpenter bees don't like holes that empty out into an empty space but bumble bees love this. And bumble bees typically like to use small holes as a way to enter a nest cavity so this might be what you have going on in your column. But it really doesn't matter; if you dust the hole with Drione, you'll surely get either species. And all it will take is 3-5 squirts of the Drione. In most cases the nest will shut down in a day if it's hit thoroughly. Now if you see activity a day after you treat, that means you didn't use enough and will need to dust again.

Now if you can't find an entrance hole, it's entirely possible the bees are entering the column via a small gap or crack in the frame. I've seen this happen many times; even though both bees are seemingly "thick", they can slide into some tight cracks. In these cases, dusting the entire gap will yield the same results as treating a specific hole. It will require more product and more effort to make sure you get them all but in the end, the Drione will render the nest useless.

Lastly, the best time to treat will be in the evening, close to dark, to insure the bees are both back at the nest and not active. This will help reduce the chance of confrontation and being stung.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Carpenter Bee Article:  http://www.carpenterbees.com/carpenter-bee-control

Bumble Bee Article:  http://www.bugspray.com/articles99/bumblebees.html

Drione Dust:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page256.html

Hand Duster:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page258.html

What should I do?
Thanks, for any advice!

Old tree stumps can be used for so many projects in and around the home and I'm sure this one must be special. To have survived some 40 years outside is a testament to Cedar. Hopefully it's got enough of it's original character in tact and once the bees are gone, you'll be able to use it either inside or outside the home without presenting undue risk or hazard to you or your family.

It sounds like you've already read our CARPENTER BEE CONTROL ARTICLE which explains the life cycle of this bee. As you're learning, their egg chambers can hold several young bees which will can take up to a year to fully develop and leave. As I see it, there are surely several nests in this old stump but just how many left inside is anyone's guess. If you wish to finish it off right away and not have to worry about emerging adults at some later date, there are two things you can do.

First, treat any holes you want to cover up with the DRIONE DUST we have listed in our article. The 1/2" CORKS we show for sealing the holes can be pushed down just deep enough so a wood filler can be applied over the top of them allowing you to cosmetically hide any hole now visible. In theory, you should be able to treat and seal any visible hole you find. This would then allow you to stain, varnish or do whatever you had in mind with the stump and not have to worry about new exit holes being drilled from emerging young still not fully developed. As explained in several posts, you don't want to stuff these holes with wood filler. This will essentially trap the emerging bees and they'll be forced to drill new holes making a mess of any finishing work you do so be sure and leave the nests open filled with Drione so they'll die as soon as they hatch. But the real key here is whether or not you can "see" all the nests. I've seen stumps where some holes are clearly visible but others are not that easy to find. In many cases the end result is the few that are missed will lead to more bee activity at some point in the future. Now if you were intending on using it outside, this might not be a problem. But if you want to keep the stump in the home, there is a risk of bees emerging in the future so unless you're 100% sure you get all their nests, don't keep it inside just yet.

Second, after treating any and all nests you can find with the Drione, storing it for at least one year would be the clincher for safe using. If you treated it good now and then stored it away in your garage sealed up tight in some plastic, any nests you missed would release their contents and the emerging bees would surely die. If the stump is tightly wrapped during this time, the emerging adults wouldn't be able to reproduce or live long so there would be no chance of reinfestation. I'd say that by this time next July, the stump could safely be removed and used however you want.

Lastly, if you did finish it and planned on keeping it outside somewhere, be sure to use something like the CYPERMETHRIN or the INSECT REPELLENT sprayed on it to protect it from further nests being drilled. Alternatively, if you plan on keeping it inside the home for use, there shouldn't be a problem with new bees finding it to nest.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Carpenter Bee Article:  http://www.carpenterbees.com/carpenter-bee-control

Drione Dust:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page256.html

1/2" Corks:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page257.html

Cypermethrin:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page259.html

Insect Repellent:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/repellents/nbs-repellent-insect-spray

Are all carpenter bees about 1/2 inch big?

GROUND BEES are a somewhat "generic" term used to describe a wide range of bees and wasps that nest in the ground. There are hundreds of species that nest in this location and though some can cause problems on or around the home, none can do damage like CARPENTER BEES. Remember, Carpenter Bees are literally drilling holes through siding, soffits and other exposed wood where they find it vulnerable. These holes are for nesting; the bees aren't eating the wood.

Ground wasps and bees are actually nesting in the ground and even in cases where there are thousands of such nests, I've never seen it get so extreme that it poses a hazard to or undermines a structure. So even with the wide range of bee and wasp species that could be nesting in the ground, I think it's safe to say very few if any might do damage to homes or other structures.

Regarding the size of carpenter bees; this does vary on region and species. Here in the United States, we have a few species which are most common. These range in size from 1/2" to 1.5". However, the most common adult males range from 3/4" to 1" and females of these common species will be slightly bigger.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Bumble Bee Control:  http://www.bugspray.com/articles99/bumblebees.html

Ground or Digger Wasp Control:  http://www.bugspray.com/articles99/diggerwasps.html

Carpenter Bee Control:  http://www.carpenterbees.com/carpenter-bee-control

In nature, carpenter bees serve a special purpose in that they recycle dead wood. Around the home, this practice is both destructive and costly. Man (home builders) have learned to protect wood with various treatments including paint, stain, chemicals and other agents. In general these do a fine job of staving off unwanted insect and wood destroying mold. But over time most all these treatments will weaken and insects are quick to find such weak spots. Once identified these locations can be exploited and though most insects seem to prefer "raw" wood over wood with a finish, there is no doubt even a painted surface can be vulnerable to mother nature.

To combat the ever present and very real potential for damage from any wood desctructive pest, man has developed a wide range of pesticides. We are distributors of many such products and over the years have learned which work best for certain pests. When it comes to carpenter bees, they no doubt do not like CYPERMETHRIN. When sprayed early in the season onto wood where bees are active, they'll move away and in general stay away. Most areas will need at least two treatments per season; some homes require more to hold off this potentially destructive pest. We have also learned the INSECT REPELLENT discussed at the end of our CARPENTER BEE CONTROL ARTICLE can be a great additive used in paint and stain to help fight this cause. Applications done this way can last a year or two so the need for spraying Cypermethrin can be put on hold for awhile.

So to answer your question above: "Do carpenter bees cause damage to homes and decks if not treated?", the answer is no doubt they can. Of course we can't say with 100% certainty they will but no doubt untreated wood is likely to be attacked when left outside. This applies to wood in the forest, around the home or on the home itself. But more importantly, even wood with a painted or stained surface – what we would call "treated" – can be damaged. So it's important to understand if any of these invasive and wood destroying insects like carpenter bees, carpenter ants, termites, powderpost beetles, pine borers, wood wasps or some other decides it want's "in" on your wood, the only thing that is likely to stop it will be a chemical pesticide treatment.

Here are direct links to the information and products mentioned above:

Cypermethrin:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page259.html

Insect Repellent:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/repellents/nbs-repellent-insect-spray

Carpenter Bee Control Article:  http://www.carpenterbees.com/carpenter-bee-control

As our CARPENTER BEE CONTROL ARTICLE explains, carpenter bees exist in nature as a kind of recycler. Your wood pile is exactly why they exist; in the forest they would be drilling through it turning the trunk and limbs to sawdust therefore allowing the cellulose to filter back into the earth. But when we're trying to preserve such wood to use at a later date, the bee's natural behavior will come in direct conflict with our effort. To stave off their attacks, there are a few things you can do.

First, dusting any existing holes you see with DE DUST will render it dead and prevent further damage and nest growth. This can be done any time and will not affect the wood in any way now or when it comes time to burn it. In other words, the dust can be burned with the wood and not pose a hazard to anyone close to the fire.

Second, the wood in the wood pile can be treated to prevent further drilling. The best product for treating wood piles is the INSECT REPELLENT. This is not a pesticide but is merely a repellent. It won't kill anything nor would treated wood pose a threat to anyone close to the fire when being burned. I expect you'll need to spray at least twice from now till the fall/winter; 3-4 applications would be the norm for most active sites to keep them away effectively.

Here are direct links to the products and information posted above:

Carpenter Bee Article:  http://www.carpenterbees.com/carpenter-bee-control

DE Dust:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/dust/mothers-earth-diatomaceous-dust

Insect Repellent:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/repellents/nbs-repellent-insect-spray

When applied with the kids away from the area, none of the products featured in our CARPENTER BEE CONTROL article will get anyone sick. In fact, there will be little chance of any exposure. Just follow the safety guideline videos on each product page which details all you need to do to both use and store all our products safely.

If you still aren't convinced, go with one of the organic solutions posted here:

http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/carpenter-bees/non-toxic-carpenter-bee-control-options.html

If you have further questions or concerns, give us a call on our toll free 1-800-877-7290 during regular hours and one of our tech reps will be able to assist. Here is a link to our Carpenter Bee Control article; at the end of the article there are links to all the products discussed as well:

http://www.carpenterbees.com/carpenter-bee-control

It would be helpful if you could send a photo. We get lots of questions on this problem and a good image could prove helpful at some time in the future.

Based on the time of year (spring), it's quite common for people to see yellow stains on siding, windows and other areas of the home where carpenter bees are active. In most cases the stains are in fact carpenter bee feces. Pollen is their main food source and if nest access holes are close to the siding, many times their feces will fall directly onto some part of the house. The result is a yellow "streak" which can have some other colors mixed in. It sounds like this is what you're seeing.

If you review our online CARPENTER BEE CONTROL article, you'll learn the best way to treat nests is with some DRIONE DUST. If you aren't able to see their nests, I suggest you take a little time to watch the area where you see the stains. If you sit long enough from mid morning to mid day, chances are high you'll note some bees coming and going. If you see them you'll no doubt learn their access points. Many times they'll crawl through small cracks in the siding or around attic and soffit vents so I'm sure their nest is close to where you think it might be. Once identified, dust these passageways and you'll stop that nest for sure. This treatment will work even if you cannot treat the nests directly.

To stop future nests from forming spray these same areas with the CYPERMETHRIN discussed in our article. It's highly repellent to bees and wasps and will keep them off treated surfaces. They'll immediately detect it's presence and move away from your home. You may need to do a few treatments this spring but in general one or two is all that's needed for the season.

Here are direct links to the information and products mentioned above:

Bee Article: http://www.carpenterbees.com/carpenter-bee-control

Drione Dust:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page256.html

Cypermethrin: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page259.html

You are right; carpenter bees will generally take advantage of exposed and vulnerable wood by drilling out holes in which to nest. However, they also recycle or use old holes from year to year without drilling new ones. It's quite possible some bees have found the gap you described above and are treating it like an old nest. If it measures close to a carpenter bee nest in width and length. it could be just the right size to make them happy and content. I know of several wasps and bees that will readily move into such spaces and no doubt carpenter bees will if they find them.

Fortunately treatment would be easy. If you refer to our CARPENTER BEE ARTICLE, you'll see we mention the use of dusts for treating their holes and nests. In this case, the PT-230 DUST would be ideal. One treatment should do the trick. Get them in the evening when they are sure to be inside the nest and simply stick the tube applicator of the dust in the hole and squeeze it on for 1-2 seconds. That will no doubt take care of the problem. I also recommend treating any other gaps you can see as they're likely to be seen and used if left unprotected.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Carpenter Bee Control: http://www.carpenterbees.com/carpenter-bee-control

PT-230 Dust: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page256.html

Cutting to the chase, what do I need to counteract what appears to be carpenter bee activity? I have found several, almost perfectly spherical holes in various logs, ranging from a quarter inch deep to two or more and beyond. Please advise. I appreciate it.

Thank you, J.

As explained in our CARPENTER BEE CONTROL ARTICLE, wood structures tend to get special attention from certain insects and carpenter bees are one of them. Log cabins in particular are extra attractive and if left unprotected, holes will be drilled in which the bees will live. To counteract the nesting, there are two things detailed in our article.

The first is to treat any existing nest with DRIONE DUST. I'm not sure you actually have existing nests thus far; based on the depths of the holes you described above you might be acting early enough to avoid the dust treatment. But if you find any holes a foot or two deep, get them dusted and plugged with our 1/2" CORKS and they'll be properly handled for sure. Remember, the dust is excellent to use for cracks and crevices so there are plenty of uses for it on the log cabin one way or the other. It works on a wide range of pests and when used in the spring can go a long way as a preventive treatment.

Next, spray with CYPERMETHRIN to prevent any future drilling. Treat as needed but in general once every two weeks will be expected during the peak bee activity time.  Now once you get past the first 1-2 months, activity should be controlled for most of the year but keep watch in the fall as they might get active then too.

Lastly, if you intend on staining or using any other log treatment at some point in the future, be sure to add some NBS INSECT REPELLENT ADDITIVE. This is added directly to the tank mix and works like the Cypermethrin but lasts a lot longer. It's ability to provide a long residue makes it worth using when treating logs and in some cases can last 2 years making it worth using.

Here are direct links to the products and information mentioned above:

Carpenter Bee Control: http://www.carpenterbees.com/carpenter-bee-control

Drione Dust: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page256.html

1/2" Plugs: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page257.html

Cypermethrin:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page259.html

Stain Additive: http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/repellents/nbs-repellent-insect-spray

If you read through our CARPENTER BEE ARTICLE, you'll learn these bees drill through wood to created nests. This drilling will many times create a sawdust by product which can "leak" down siding giving the appearance of droppings or bee feces. Additionally, bees which remain active in one location will definitely defecate as they drill. Feces will also be "pushed out" or disposed through exit holes. Many times this disposal process will cause the feces to trickle down the house siding which is what you're no doubt seeing.

Regarding these bees returning each spring; females will reuse old nests from year to year and their offspring will most likely drill new nests close by. As explained in this post:

http://www.carpenterbees.com/bee-life/carpenter-bee-life-cycle.html

the vast majority of nests will be occupied all winter by hibernating females and males just waiting for the weather to get warm enough for them to emerge and begin their summertime activities. In most areas of the United States this will start in April-May and the activity will continue through Oct-Nov.

Getting rid of the feces will no doubt make the home look nicer but it will in no way influence the local bees nesting in your home. Females in heat are what attract male bees as well as prime nest real estate. If the siding and soffits of your home are left unprotected, the wood will release odors which are conducive to insect infestations and in doing so will many times attract wood loving pests like carpenter bees. At this point it's imperative for you to treat existing holes with DRIONE DUST and then seal them up with the 1/2" PLUGS featured in our article. And the best sprays you can apply to prevent new nesting will be either the CYPERMETHRIN or the INSECT REPELLENT PAINT ADDITVE/SPRAY CONCENTRATE. As you're already seeing, failure to follow these suggestions will just allow the problem to propagate from year to year.

Here are direct links to the products and information listed above:

Carpenter Bee Article:  http://www.carpenterbees.com/carpenter-bee-control

Drione Dust:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page256.html

Cork Plugs: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page257.html

Cypermethrin:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page259.html

Insect Repellent:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/repellents/nbs-repellent-insect-spray