Watched your videos and think I need to order your products. We have four loghomes in WV. One has a carpenter bees problem.

Outside surface is about 2000sq ft. There are about 50 bee holes.

Cabin is on a hill side and thus about 35 feet high on one side.

Questions;

1 How much drione dust would I need?

2 Does it have a shelf life?

3 How much Cypermethrin would I need, given the fact that I would have to repeat the treatment.

4 You mention to plug the holes with corks. Do you sell these corks?

5 Are there any devices to apply these corks in high places which i can’t reach?

6 These pin stream tip sprayers, can these be bought anywhere?

7 The Drione dust, will that also work against yellow jackets nests?

Ant further suggestions?

Best regards and hope to hear from you.

No doubt loghomes are a prime target for carpenter bees. They love the logs along with many other pests like ASIAN LADYBUGS and WASPS. Fortunately the products you’ll need to treat your loghome for carpenterbees will work on just about everything else too. Now, to answer some of your questions…

I believe a 1 lb jar of DRIONE could do the job but you may need more. It really depends on just how deep the holes go so it’s tough for me to say for sure. Most jugs will treat 25-50 holes but since it will keep for up to 5 years, you may just get 2 and have some for the future. Loghomes tend to attract all kinds of pests so I’m sure it won’t go to waste.

I’d get at least the pint of CYPERMETHRIN but since it too can keep for at least 5 years, you may want to get more based on the values of getting larger sizes.

We actually carry a very exact sized CORK which is ideal for this application.

For high places, I suggest you consider getting a DUSTICK. It’s ideal for this exact application and the video’s we have on it show why it can really help.

Not sure where you’ll be able to find a good sprayer but if you can’t find one you know will do the job, go with either the SOLO HD or the 20 GALLON HOSE END.

View the Drione video I did which details why it’s one of the best products for use around the home. It’s at the bottom of the product page. I believe I can control most any pest with nothing but Drione and yeah, it will handle YELLOW JACKETS easy.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Drione:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/drione-dust

Cypermethrin:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/viper-cypermethrin

Corks:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/equipment-plugs/cork-12

Dustick:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/dusters/dustick

Solo Sprayer:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/sprayers/solo-1-gallon-sprayer

20 Gallon Hose End:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/sprayers/gilmour-20g-390

Yellow Jacket Treatments:  http://www.bugspray.com/article/yellowjackets.html

Carpenter Bee Control:  http://www.carpenterbees.com/carpenter-bee-control

Thanks.

In fact I’ve been amazed at the wide range of wood carpenter bees will utilize. No doubt they seem to prefer anything soft with pine being a favorite. So if you wish to deter them, go with a hardwood if possible. Hickory, walnut, cherry and oak are all good choices. And though redwood, cedar and douglas fir are supposed to be naturally repellent to bees, I can’t say I’ve seen this to hold up to be true in the real world. Of course we deal with people that have problems so that means we’ll get called because there is most definitely a bee problem. And when we do take notice, there are some common things we’ve learned over the years when it comes to the species of wood they like to target.

First, it’s obvious that the local supply of wood and good nest sites will have a big impact on whether they choose what you build or some place else to nest. So if there is an abundant supply of cellulose around the location where the pavilion will be built, there is a good chance something else will be targeted before the new wood you install. But if your posts and rafters are the only good nests sites for several acres, chances are high it will be a prime target to anything that likes to bore in wood like Powderpost Beetles, Carpenter Bees and Carpenter Ants.

Second, if the pavilion is left “natural” as in no stain or exterior finish, this will no doubt increase the odds of it becoming a target because carpenter bees seem to target naturally decaying wood over all else.

Third, if the wood is subject to a lot of moisture, mold and fungus, it will increase the odds of it becoming a nest site.

Fourth, if there is an abundant supply of bees nearby nesting in a somewhat limited amount of cellulose, the odds of them moving to your pavilion will increase.

In summary, I’ve seen them nest in virtually any kind of wood including pressure treated lumber, cedar painted with Duron Paint and even railroad ties! After witnessing all these woods being targeted, I’ve learned there is no magic species they’ll always ignore. So my suggestion is use the Oak if possible with the Douglas Fir as a second choice. But I wouldn’t stop there.

If you want to insure your project won’t become the target of anything destructive, make sure they know that spring and fall treatments with either CYPERMETHRIN or NBS REPELLENT can do a lot in the way of prevention. In my experience, treating is really the only way to insure a problem won’t develop.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Cypermethrin:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/viper-cypermethrin

NBS Repellent:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/exempt/additive/nbs-paint-additive-16-oz

Carpenter Bee Control:  http://www.carpenterbees.com/carpenter-bee-control

Powderpost Beetles:  http://www.powderpostbeetles.com/powderpost-beetle-control

Carpenter Ants:  http://www.carpenterants.com/carpenter-ant-control

After reading your message, I think its safe to say you have a carpenter bee problem. Now is it serious? No. And it’s something you can most definitely handle yourself so there is no need to call in an expensive service.
First, if you read our CARPENTER BEE CONTROL article, you’ll learn the ones you’re seeing are males. Basically they just hang around plants waiting for a female to come by. They don’t have stingers so they can’t hurt you but they will definitely buzz close to you over and over; this is their nature and basically it’s all they do all day long. The good news is female bees have no interest in people and they don’t hang around buzzing anything other than their nests and flowers when searching for food.

Second, in our article you’ll learn about two types of sprays that are typically applied to wood where bees are drilling. By treating the wood, you can prevent new holes from being drilled because bees hate these sprays. These two products can also be sprayed on plants to repel bees from the area. The stronger of the two is the CYPERMETHRIN. Use it on the plant just once and these annoying males will be gone. If they choose to linger, they’ll probably die. Since most insects can sense the presense of the Cypermethrin, it tends to do a good job repelling annoying wasps and bees without killing them unless they insist on landing on treated surfaces.

Alternatively you can spray the NBS INSECT REPELLENT. This organic concentrate won’t kill anything but like the Cypermethrin, it will repel bees and wasps. You’ll need to use this more aggressively meaning you’ll have to treat every week or two compared to the Cypermethrin which will last a lot longer.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Carpenter Bee Control:  http://www.carpenterbees.com/carpenter-bee-control

Cypermethrin:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/viper-cypermethrin

NBS Repellent:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/exempt/additive/nbs-paint-additive-16-oz

There are many types of bees that love to nest in adobe. Regardless of what species they are, the products listed in our CARPENTER BEE CONTROL article will keep them away. Simply dust the holes you see with DRIONE and that will take care of all the current activity. Apply some CYPERMETHRIN to any area you don’t want bees to appear and you’ll have an effective repellent in place that will last several weeks per treatment.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Carpenter Bee Control:  http://www.carpenterbees.com/carpenter-bee-control

Drione:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/drione-dust

Cypermethrin:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/viper-cypermethrin

Yes. Pressure treated lumber is generally well protected against decay fungi and most insects that eat wood. But remember, CARPENTER BEES aren’t eating the wood. They’re only drilling through it. I’ve seen plenty of nests located in pressure treated lumber so whatever is being injected does not seem to slow them down or kill them.

That being said, in my experience it would seem that in general, most carpenter bees prefer untreated wood over pressure treated lumber. This is probably due to the fact that pressure treated lumber tends to be more “dense”. It also tends to mask the natural odor of the wood. This makes it harder for the bees to find it and even when they are flying around it, freshly treated lumber isn’t nearly as appealing as unpainted raw wood.

If you find any wood – pressure treated or not – being drilled by carpenter bees,  you’ll need to treat it as described in our CARPENTER BEE CONTROL article. Dust any holes you find with DRIONE and then spray with either CYPERMETHRIN or NBS INSECT REPELLENT to stop new holes from being created.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Carpenter Bee Control:  http://www.carpenterbees.com/carpenter-bee-control

Drione:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/drione-dust

Cypermethrin:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/viper-cypermethrin

NBS:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/exempt/additive/nbs-paint-additive-16-oz

Thank you!

It’s most likely you have carpenter bees. You can read all about them in our Carpenter Bee Control ARTICLE. There you’ll find control methods listed. Basically you’ll need to dust their holes with drione and spray the wood with CYPERMETHRIN to prevent new nests from being drilled. The process is easy and well explained in the article.

Here are direct links to the products and information mentioned above:

Carpenter Bee Control:  http://www.carpenterbees.com/carpenter-bee-control

drione:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/drione-dust

Cypermethrin:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/viper-cypermethrin

Thanks!

In fact what you’re describing is quite common. As explained in our CARPENTER BEE ARTICLE, woodpeckers will be drawn to any wood boring pest and they love bees. What you didn’t mention is if the door was sealed last year after plugging any holes from carpenter bees of if it was installed new with no insect activity that you knew about? I ask because if you did seal it without first treating any obvious carpenter bee holes with DRIONE, the process of getting rid of both pests will be much tougher than normal.

At this point you can either spray with CYPERMETHRIN to get rid of the bees or even the NBS used the same way should do the trick. Of course, using the NBS in another coat of sealant should help accomplish the same goal. Prior to this you’ll have to dust with the Drione though if you have current holes already drilled.

As for the woodpeckers; I’d install a JUMPING SPIDER. You can see it in action on our WOODPECKER CONTROL site. It works great at keeping them away and once you resolve the bee problem, the birds are sure to move away so you won’t have to have the spider out there forever.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Carpenter Bee Article:  http://www.carpenterbees.com/carpenter-bee-control

Drione:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/drione-dust

Cypermethrin:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/viper-cypermethrin

NBS:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/exempt/additive/nbs-paint-additive-16-oz

Moving Spider:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/repellents/visual/attack-spider-w18-line

Woodpecker Control:  http://www.woodpecker-control.com/woodpecker-control

I believe you were looking at the NBS INSECT REPELLENT. Here’s a link:

http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/repellents/nbs-repellent-insect-spray

CORKS are only needed to enable the DRIONE DUST to last as long as possible. In fact there is no doubt the Drione would solve your problem and even without corking the bee nests you’ll still get fairly long protection. Here’s why.

When treating carpenter bee nests out in the open, leaving the treated hole as is will allow lots of air flow which in turn will depreciate the treatment. Instead of 6-12 months of residual, you may only get 1-3 months. The corks can also serve as markers so you’ll know which nests have been treated, which ones still need to be dusted and which holes have been newly drilled.

When treating up under soffits, facia boards and other wood trim bees will sometimes access, it’s many times impossible to dust directly into their nests. But because many of these entry ways will be so well protected from you, they’ll also be well protected from the weather. In cases like this we’ve seen where dusting can last 3-6 months no problem and sometimes even longer. I suspect this would be the case in your situation.

In summary, there is no need for worry or concern about not being able to cork their holes. In fact, if you were to dust once in the spring and once in the fall, I’m sure you’ll be able to keep this pest under control and avoid costly damage to the rest of the house that’s sure to start if you allow the situation to continue. As the Drione video demonstrates, this dust is light and airy and only a little bit can go a long way at both killing and repelling carpenter bees. I’m sure any applied to the cracks and crevices you have in this wood trim area will do the job.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Corks:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page257.html

Drione:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page256.html

Carpenter Bee Article:  http://www.carpenterbees.com/carpenter-bee-control