It would be helpful if you could send a photo. We get lots of questions on this problem and a good image could prove helpful at some time in the future.

Based on the time of year (spring), it's quite common for people to see yellow stains on siding, windows and other areas of the home where carpenter bees are active. In most cases the stains are in fact carpenter bee feces. Pollen is their main food source and if nest access holes are close to the siding, many times their feces will fall directly onto some part of the house. The result is a yellow "streak" which can have some other colors mixed in. It sounds like this is what you're seeing.

If you review our online CARPENTER BEE CONTROL article, you'll learn the best way to treat nests is with some DRIONE DUST. If you aren't able to see their nests, I suggest you take a little time to watch the area where you see the stains. If you sit long enough from mid morning to mid day, chances are high you'll note some bees coming and going. If you see them you'll no doubt learn their access points. Many times they'll crawl through small cracks in the siding or around attic and soffit vents so I'm sure their nest is close to where you think it might be. Once identified, dust these passageways and you'll stop that nest for sure. This treatment will work even if you cannot treat the nests directly.

To stop future nests from forming spray these same areas with the CYPERMETHRIN discussed in our article. It's highly repellent to bees and wasps and will keep them off treated surfaces. They'll immediately detect it's presence and move away from your home. You may need to do a few treatments this spring but in general one or two is all that's needed for the season.

Here are direct links to the information and products mentioned above:

Bee Article: http://www.carpenterbees.com/carpenter-bee-control

Drione Dust:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page256.html

Cypermethrin: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page259.html

I suspect this could be related to the extensive sealing you did. In your message you state you "sealed them with wood filler" which leads me to believe you didn't use our corks to seal treated nests as recommended. As explained in our CARPENTER BEE ARTICLE, the corks serve two purposes in that they first seal the nest so moisture can't get inside and secondly they allow the nest corridors to stay open and accessible. This way emerging bees will crawl through the DRIONE DUST and die after they hatch from their protective egg chambers. This is vital to controlling the nests. If you sealed the nest and filled the tunnels with wood filler, the emerging bees this year would be forced to exit elsewhere. The only way they know to do this is to drill new holes which would bypass your Drione treatment. The net result would be a new population with new nests this spring and it sounds like this may be happening already.

This time around I suggest you dust the new holes you see with Drione but this time don't seal them all with wood filler. Instead use the 1/2" CORKS we recommend as this will keep the tunnels of the nest open and accessible for any bees hatching from egg chambers later this year or next year depending on their cycle. No doubt the wood filler does a good job of sealing the nest but the reality is that it does too good of a job. Remember, Drione is the dust of choice because it will last 6-12 months. But if you effectively seal off all the tunnels you treated so the bees can't access the treatment, what's the point? By doing this you have effectively taken away the very feature which makes the Drione such a good product choice. Instead leave the tunnels open so the Drione can work it's magic.

At this point I also recommend you treat with CYPERMETHRIN to insure no new holes are being drilled from the outside in. And after dusting the holes you do find, cork them and make sure you inspect daily for the next 4 weeks as this is the prime time for them to emerge and begin their summer patterns. If you see any new holes form, dust them accordingly. Follow this routine throughout the entire spring and I'm sure you'll be able to break their cycle once and for all.

Here are direct links to the products and information listed above:

Carpenter Bee Article:  http://www.carpenterbees.com/carpenter-bee-control

Drione Dust:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page256.html

Corks: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page257.html

Cypermethrin:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page259.html

We've got three powders that are commonly used by pest control companies. All three will work well. The main one featured in our CARPENTER BEE CONTROL article is is the DRIONE DUST. It's mostly silica gel with some pyrethrin and used to be the main powder used overall. But due to supply issues, Drione has been somewhat hard to get and it's price has jumped up quite a bit. During this time two other dusts have become good substitutes and should perform almost as well.

The first one is PYGANIC DUST. Mostly made of silica gel, Pyganic is very close to Drione in that it's got pyrethrin too. The one main difference is in the lack of synergists which prevents Pyganic from working as acutely compared to Drione. But overall residual should be similar if not the same and side by side, the average person wouldn't notice much if any difference between the two.

The second viable option is the MOTHERS EARTH DUST. Comprised of diatoms, this powder is a good desicant but it doesn't contain any pyrethrin. Without this vital ingredient, Mothers Earth won't provide a good flush or knockdown compared to both Drione and Pyganic. But will it work? Yes. When applied directly into the bee nests like we discuss in our article and what you probably had done some time ago on your deck, the dust will last a long time if it's sealed up with our 1/2" PLUGS. This will keep it active long enough to deal with hatching eggs which are always a risk in these nests.

Here are direct links to the information and products mentioned above:

Carpenter Bee Article:  http://www.carpenterbees.com/carpenter-bee-control

Drione Dust: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page256.html

Pyganic Dust:  http://www.bugspray.com/item/pyganic_dust.html

Mothers Earth Dust: http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/dust/mothers-earth-diatomaceous-dust

1/2" Plugs:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page257.html

Thanks for your time,
K.W.

If you read our CARPENTER BEE CONTROL ARTICLE, you'll learn the DRIONE DUST is the best product to use on this pest. On the Drione Dust page there is a video which discusses all the benefits of Drione. In fact, around minute 8 of the video we aply some under cedar shakes and you'll see the dust coming out way above where it was applied. This is due to it's light and airy design. And this design makes it float around much like "smoke" which is needed for treating under siding. Because of this trait the Drione is perfect for getting up and into tight spaces like you're describing.

For your situation, a quick dusting after hours will solve the problem. I'd wait till the evening, close to dark, when you know they'll be in the nest. I'd then dust by squirting 3-5 times every foot into the cracks for 2-3 rows where you've seen activity. Even if any were to come out there is little chance of them stinging since the dust will be overwhelming them. I would expect any that did come out would just fall to the ground and die. The whole process could be done in less than 5 minutes.

Next, I would spray with the CYPERMETHRIN over the siding in this region as extra protection. But this would only serve to keep new ones away and won't solve the current problem. For that you'll need the Drione.

Here are direct links to the information and products mentioned above:

Carpenter Bee Control:  http://www.carpenterbees.com/carpenter-bee-control

Drione Dust:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page256.html

Cypermethrin:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page259.html

jonathan

www.bugspray.com

In general, total release aerosols are about the most ineffective way to treat any pest problem. They have limited potential due to the fact that they spew chemical out in all directions and don't do a good job getting it where it matters the most: the target insect's nest. Though they might impact exposed insects which cannot hide from the treatment, bees and other flying insects can easily avoid the spray. And since there will be little to no effective residual from the application, there will be no material left behind to kill bees that return after the aerosol is gone. I'm afraid for your problem a total release aerosol just isn't a good option.

To treat this space under your deck effectively, you should dust with DRIONE. It's light and airy and when applied will float around penetrating all the locations any bee might be going. If you view the Drione Dust video, you'll see how it's like a smoke making it the ideal product to use.

Drione can be used for wasps and bees and you can read more about treating under low lying decks in this post:

http://www.carpenterbees.com/carpenter-bees/carpenter-bees-below-wood-deck.html

Here is a link to our Carpenter Bee Article and Drione:

http://www.carpenterbees.com/carpenter-bee-control

http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page256.html

jonathan

www.bugspray.com

They are doing damage to the fascia and the spraying by pest control people doesn't seem to be doing a whole lot of good.

If you read through our CARPENTER BEE CONTROL ARTICLE, you'll learn these bees will readily crawl under siding and facia boards to drill nests which will then effectively be hidden and secure. It sounds like this might be happening at your house. For these situations, it's imperative the DRIONE DUST get applied up under the siding where you see bees foraging. If you're not sure where exactly they're crawling up, treat as much as you can. As shown in the Drione video, the dust is light and airy and when applied every 2-3 feet under the siding, it will permeate around effectively treating the entire space. And believe it or not, it only takes 2-3 squirts which takes all of 1-2 seconds and then you move on. In other words, dusting is easy and fast yet very effective. When done 1-2 a year, Drione dusting is about the best form of treatment that can be done on any building including homes.

The same application should be done under the facia boards around the roof line. The Drione will float up to any nests and holes and will kill any bees that attempt to crawl over the treatment. I also recommend dusting behind gutters and where shingles hang over gutters as these are all likely points of access for invasive pests. Lastly, a good spraying with the CYPERMETHRIN will help stop new nests from being drilled. But as our article says, spraying alone will not work on the existing nests which might be why your current service isn't proving effective. I suspect they haven't dusted yet because without dusting the existing nests, no spray will keep them away. Either get the Drione applied by them or do it yourself if you wish to minimize the damage and nesting because the problem will tend to get worse and worse year after year if left untreated.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

http://www.carpenterbees.com/carpenter-bee-control

http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page256.html

http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page259.html

jonathan

www.bugspray.com

If you review our CARPENTER BEE CONTROL ARTICLE, you'll learn these bees bore through wood to create their nests. It's not uncommon for nests to get "plugged up" with too many bees forcing them to drill new exit holes as explained in this post:

http://www.carpenterbees.com/inside-home/finding-carpenter-bees-in-bathroom.html

In most cases one of the situations described above is what causes some to end up inside the home for sure. Though not the best of situations, be thankful this is happening into the attic and not the main living spaces. And as the above post explains, this should only go on for another week or two before they'll all emerge and be done. Once this spring release happens, you'll have some time to treat the area to make sure the problem doesn't get any worse over the summer.

As for when to do the treatment? I say anytime after 2 weeks from when you first noticed them. I say this because if you treat now, chances are likely any others still not emerged will definitely be forced into the home. To avoid this from happening, wait a bit. Next, a good dusting round the gutters, eaves, where the roof shingles hang over the gutters and up under any siding you have on the home would be a good way to treat the problem and keep it under control. As explained in our article, the DRIONE DUST will not only kill what's there but it's light "floating" action will surely penetrate enough of the shingles and any voids behind it to make the entire area unliveable by these bees. Be sure to use it all around the house too as it works well on wasps and other invasive pests. You might need a DUSTICK to reach the roof line but one treatment done every spring and fall will keep any house bee and wasp free so it's well worth the cost and effort.

Here are links to the information and products mentioned above:

http://www.carpenterbees.com/carpenter-bee-control

http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page256.html

http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1406.html

jonathan

www.bugspray.com

As you probably read in our article and a post or two, the dust applied up under the siding will definitely get any bee, wasp or other invasive insect that tries to crawl up and into this protected space. Though difficult to directly dust or spray, carpenter bee trails and nests will be affected by a good dusting. And this dusting can be done with a HAND DUSTER or our DUSTICK. The good news is the same space the bees are trying to exploit will also serve to protect the dust you apply. That means the DRIONE should last several months in these locations. Not quite as long as when you're able to treat the nest directly and plug it up but certainly long enough to solve the problem. And in most all the cases I've treated this way, one good dusting is all that's needed. Carpenter bees in the spring will be determined and once they locate a good space to nest, they won't give it up. This will lead to their demise within a day or two of treating.

As for the Dustick being able to handle a liquid; this is not possible. It's for dust only. But even so, you should plan on liquid treating with the CYPERMETHRIN after the dust has been applied. Remember, the most important part of the dust treatment will be the material that gets up under the siding and not what's left out in the open. When spraying, yes some of the liquid will wash away dust left on the siding surface. However, this dust isn't important anyway so there is no need to worry about loosing it. The key part of the treatment will be the dust that gets  up under the siding and with the Dustick, you should be able to get what's needed into this tight little space.

A good game plan for you would be the following:

1) Get the Dustick and at least one lb of Drione. Also get some Cypermethrin and a good Pump Sprayer.

2) Sometime early in the season either before or just as the bees become active, you should do a thorough dusting of the home. I know you said there are some "15" spots where they're active but I suggest you treat more than just these areas. I have found walking the perimeter of my home and treating once in the spring and then again in the fall is a good way to keep all kinds of invasive insects at bay.

3) Let the dust settle for a day and then do a good spraying focusing in on key locations. Don't be afraid to use at least 2-3 gallons of finished product. And remember, letting it run down the side of the house on the siding will only help to provide a larger area with a protective barrier in place.

4) As for the locations which are extra high around the peak of the house; these are key locations that must be dusted thoroughly. I have found everything from carpenter ants to carpenter bees to wasps and even termites love these areas so don't avoid them. It sounds like this is a key location at your home so do whatever is needed to gain access. Sometimes working from the top of a truck or ladder will help. And most definitely practice on other parts of the home with your Dustick to get to know this tool before you attempt the "hard part" of dusting the highest possible location. I have found keeping the unit as straight "up" as possible helps as does letting it lean on the side of the home gently in between "pumping" as a good way to stabilize it. The thing to remember is to "not fight" it and keeping it straight up and down will help to keep it sturdy and use the force of gravity with you instead of against you. I also suggest getting our FACE SHIELD too so you'll be able to work directly underneath the area without having to worry about any dust or other debris falling on you.

In summary, the time to treat will be soon. Carpenter bees will start being active here in the south come March. Across the country the season will range from March-May and really it depends mostly on local temps more than anything when they will start in your region. Since the dust will last long, I suggest getting some out at least 1 month ahead of time; 1-2 weeks would be plenty close to cut it if you are wanting to wait till the last second. The point is if you have something in place when they first start to forage, chances are high most will avoid your structure altogether and in the end, isn't that really what you want?

Give us a call if you have further questions or need some help. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290. Between our videos, technical articles and telephone support, I'm sure you'll be able to get rid of these bees for good!

jonathan

www.bugspray.com

Currently the best "additive" is the NBS INSECT REPELLENT we have listed in our CARPENTER BEE CONTROL ARTICLE. It can be mixed with paint or stain and will provide 1-2 years of prolonged insect repellency action. It can also be mixed with water and sprayed on homes and plants as an insect repellent but not a pesticide; it won't kill anything as it's only for repelling pests. It's proven effective for carpenter bees along with some other invasive insects so you should definitely include this for your upcoming paint job. However, I wouldn't wait till that's done as a lot of damage could happen between now and then!

Based on the time of year we're at, I'd do a good dusting now to get rid of the ones that are active before you paint. Treat any nests with the  DRIONE DUST and it will shut them right down. Applying it every spring around the perimeter of my home does a great job of keeping them away the whole year. It seems as though wasps and bees like nesting where roof and gutters meet by soffits and eaves. These locations notoriously have gaps, a lot of moisture and a protected area (under the eave) which is an instinctive location most bees and wasps try to find when seeking nest sites. Using a DUSTICK, I've learned applying Drione to these areas does a great job of stopping most every insect that might try to invade. And getting it applied in the spring, before pests like carpenter bees establish themselves, seems to be important. As our video's show, the Drione will permeate up into the shingles and gaps and essentially take away these locations as nest sites. And since these are protected from direct weathering, the dust can last several months making it real long term protection.

I also know some people prefer to spray because it's easier to do compared to dusting. That's when we tested and learned the CYPERMETHRIN does a good job when sprayed to these surface areas of repelling these bees. So if you aren't willing to dust with the Drione, spraying the Cypermethrin once a month will do the job. But really the best way to handle this problem will be to dust now with the Drione and then use the Insect Repellent mixed with paint. Overall this combination will provide good results and require minimal applications.

Here are direct links to the information and products mentioned above:

http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/repellents/nbs-repellent-insect-spray

http://www.carpenterbees.com/carpenter-bee-control

http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page256.html

http://www.gotosprayer.com/dusters/long-reaching-dusters/dustick

http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page259.html

jonathan

www.bugspray.com