If you read our CARPENTER BEE CONTROL ARTICLE, you'll learn these bees aren't active early in the morning or late in the day. We also have videos showing the act of dusting a nest and what to expect. In over 30 years of doing this work, I have never been stung and when treatments are done at these times, you too can avoid confrontations. And though I don't feel they're needed, you can opt to don a BEE SUIT, VEIL, GLOVES and HAT which will make it impossible for them to sting you if that makes you feel more confident.

As for how to treat; our article explains this in great detail. Simply dust the nests with DRIONE and then seal them with the CORKS. After all visible nests are seen you should spray the outside with CYPERMETHRIN and that's it. From then on you only have to monitor the problem and followup as needed.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

http://www.carpenterbees.com/carpenter-bee-control

http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1853.html

http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1850.html

http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1852.html

http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1851.html

http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page256.html

http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page257.html

http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page259.html

jonathan

www.bugspray.com

Thx.

It's best to treat with DRIONE DUST and leave the holes open at least one day. This insures any bees using the nest will surely enter and be affected. The following day seal the holes with the 1/2" CORKS featured in our CARPENTER BEE CONTROL article. The part you mentioned about bees boring their way out only pertains to sealing holes which aren't first treated with Drione. This commonly happens when homes are painted and the workers unknowingly seal up holes when preparing the wood they're painting.

Regarding the NBS INSECT REPELLENT; adding it to either the stain or the top coat can work. Many people will use it in both which is best. But if you want to use it in one or the other, the rule to follow should be based on the product. For example, if the top coat is a true "seal", then using it there would be best. But if the top coat is a repeller that breathes, it won't much matter where it's used.

Here are direct links to the all the products and information mentioned above:

http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page256.html

http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page257.html

http://www.carpenterbees.com/carpenter-bee-control

http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/repellents/nbs-repellent-insect-spray

jonathan

www.bugspray.com

If you review the post we made here on bees getting up under siding:

http://www.carpenterbees.com/house-siding/bees-under-wood-siding.html

you'll learn that "blind treating" is Okay when using a dust like DRIONE. As explained in our Drione Video , the unique qualities of this product enable it to float around and penetrate large areas. When applied to a gap like you're describing, it will undoubtedly get to where it's needed. By lightly covering all the surface area in the void, foraging bees will quickly pick up the dust and die. In most situations, they'll be dead in less than a week.

After you're sure all the activity has stopped, it would be wise to get this gap sealed to prevent bees (and other pests) from taking advantage of this vulnerable spot.

Here are direct links to the products and information mentioned above.

http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page256.html

jonathan

www.bugspray.com

Thanks.

I suggest you review our online article on CARPENTER BEE CONTROL. There you'll learn that simply "spraying" their nests won't work. You must treat with a long lasting dust like the DRIONE and then seal the holes with 1/2" CORKS so the dust lasts long enough to kill the entire colony.

In the article you'll also learn spraying with the CYPERMETHRIN is the best way to prevent new nests from being drilled. I use this annually to stop them drilling my deck and 2 treatments is all most people will have to do per season.

Lastly, add some NBS PAINT/STAIN ADDITIVE the next time you paint your deck and this will save the effort of having to spray as it will last 1-2 years.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

http://www.carpenterbees.com/carpenter-bee-control

http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page256.html

http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page257.html

http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page259.html

http://www.bugspray.com/item/nbs_30_paint_additive_insect_repellent.html

jonathan

wwwbugspray.com

Read through our CARPENTER BEE CONTROL ARTICLE for starters. In the article you'll learn the treatments needed. If you have nests you'll need to dust them with the DRIONE. If they are only flying around the deck a good spraying with the CYPERMETHRIN will stop the activity and should protect the wood from further attacks.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

http://www.carpenterbees.com/carpenter-bee-control

http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page256.html

http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page259.html

If you take some time to read through our CARPENTER BEE CONTROL article, you'll learn exactly what you need to do. A quick dusting with some DRIONE will take care of them instantly. Plug up the hole 1 day later with some of our 1/2" CORKS and you'll be done with that nest for sure. If you only have 10 or less nests to treat, a can of the PT-230 (aerosol version of Drione seen on the DRIONE page) will be enough to do the job.

To keep them away, spray the entire swing set with CYPERMETHRIN. Treatments should last 2-4 weeks and are easy to apply using any standard PUMP SPRAYER.

Organic options include the DE DUST in place of the Drione and some BUG PATROL in place of the Cypermethrin. Neither will last as long so expect to do an extra application or two but they will handle the problem.

Here are direct links:

http://www.carpenterbees.com/carpenter-bee-control

http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page256.html

http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page257.html

http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page259.html

http://www.gotosprayer.com/sprayers

http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/dust/mothers-earth-diatomaceous-dust

http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/bug-patrol-rts

I think the PT-230 will handle your needs fine. A good rule to follow here is that the PT-230 can usually treat at least 5 nests. One can never tell for sure unless you are certain you know just how deep each nest is in the wood. The depth is what dictates how much material will be needed; nests which are 2 feet or longer will require a lot more drione compared to a nest which is only 6-12 inches deep.

Based on the limited information you provided, I believe the PT-230 will suffice and handle your problem for now most definitely. If you only have 1-2 holes to treat next year, it should be more than enough for you at that time as well. But if you end up finding 5 or more holes, get the 1 lb DRIONE, along with a good HAND DUSTER, to insure good coverage and proper product distribution.

Definitely dust the holes too. Successful carpenter bee extermination will only happen if you dust them with the Drione as explained in our CARPENTER BEE CONTROL article. Since the eggs, larvae and pupae reside in their holes, you must have something there to kill off the developing bees. Drione will be key if you want to be rid of them once and for all.